Pin and Tape……

…….A term regularly used here at The Rigging Company. Yet this small detail appears to elude most, at least when it comes to doing it correctly. I always say, “details are what make the difference between a professional job and one that is well, not so professional”. If you take notice as to how your standing rigging was pinned and taped, you can usually tell whether or not you were amidst skilled riggers.

Sizing the cotter pin: Use the diameter, material and leg length specified for the fitting. A replacement cotter pin must fit the retaining hole properly and leave enough leg length to secure it without unnecessary sharp projections. Replace used or damaged pins rather than repeatedly straightening and rebending them.

How to bend a cotter pin: First, to insert the cotter pin, sometimes you will need to turn the turnbuckle and top stud to align the cotter pin holes. With clevis pins make sure that the hole is turned to the desired location before applying any tension to the stay.

A NOTE ON WHICH DIRECTION THINGS SHOULD FACE: Where the fitting allows, orient exposed pin ends aft or inboard to reduce snags, without compromising correct installation or inspection access.

There are several ways to bend a cotter pin, depending on the fitting and available clearance. Follow the hardware manufacturer’s method, fully seat the pin and secure the legs so the pin cannot withdraw. Relying on gravity and one barely bent leg is not a general rigging recommendation.

Another version would be to bend both legs to an approximate 30-45 degree angle (see pic on the right, at the chain plate). Here the head can be positioned in any direction. Use the bend arrangement specified for the fitting; the photograph is an example, not a universal angle requirement.

A third version is to bend the legs so that they are at 180 degrees to each other (also pictured right in the turnbuckle). Although extremely secure, this method usually only works well within the confines of a turnbuckle body, otherwise the legs stick out too far and might get ‘caught’ up.

The last method is my least favorite as it is the most tedious. Here you bend the cotter pin legs all the way ’round'(pictured left). This may be necessary like up at the masthead or anywhere the cotter pin legs tend to be exposed to things that will easily snag, like rope.

So why tape? Well you need to tape to cover any sharp edges from getting snagged on sails, hands, ropes, feet etc… Many people frown on the technique of taping cotter pins at the turnbuckles. Yes, when the tape is allowed to stay on the turnbuckle for more than a year it starts to look shabby. For this very reason alone I have grown to like the neat, taped look. Old cruddy tape is a clear reminder to pay attention to your rigging.

To tape correctly is (believe it or not) a bit of a skill. Below is the technique that I follow.

I start by taping from the top, down (pictured above). This allows me to make a second pass from the bottom up.

Taping from the bottom up (pictured above) allows water to run off of the tape instead of sitting on its edges. It also makes the seam disappear visually and gives it more of a molded look.

A reverse first wrap, sticky side out, can keep adhesive off the metal, as illustrated. It does not prevent trapped moisture or make a covered fitting inspection-free. Use compatible tape, keep drainage paths clear and inspect beneath it regularly.

Please note: Turnbuckle bodies may be bronze, plated bronze or stainless steel. Identify the actual material and follow the manufacturer’s care guidance; appearance alone does not identify the alloy.

After you have covered a sufficient area, fold the tape over so the shiny side is out (pictured above). Continue taping covering any exposed adhesive. Make sure you finish on the way up and ALWAYS cut the tape without stretching it (pictured below)!

Optional cotter pin coverings are available and come in either PVC tubes, leather covers, and Velcro wraps that have the cotter pin sewn or riveted in. If you need an alternative to taping I would recommend the leather or the Velcro wraps (pictured below). Try and stay away from plastic tubes as they can break or become brittle in sunlight, this can create sharp edges. Be aware, anytime you cover your stainless hardware and leave it covered so that dirt and mold can form, it can trap moisture and encourage corrosion.

So once a year, take off your turnbuckle coverings and clean what is underneath!

Finally, you can also use silicone dabs to cover the sharp cotter pin legs in some applications (usually only aloft). It is very unlike me to okay the use of silicone as this has got to be the most over and improperly used product in the marine industry. So please use it sparingly and not until everything else is done first. Otherwise you are likely to get that stuff everywhere.

Thanks for the read and stay tuned for more……

Shop Hayn clevis pins. Match the pin diameter, grip length and retaining arrangement.