Inspecting Your Mast and Rigging

Check your mast and rigging at least once a season and before an offshore passage, following the manufacturers’ schedules and your rigger’s advice. A deck-level or aloft visual check can identify warning signs, but cannot reveal every hidden crack, corrosion pocket or fatigued component. Mast removal and dismantling intervals depend on the rig, materials, service history and use; there is no universal five-year interval for every boat. Do not climb a rig suspected of structural damage. Arrange a professional inspection and a safe access plan first. See our going aloft guidance.

To help you do your own rigging check, here are some general guidelines for the average sloop rigged boat. For any specific questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to call.                                                                                                                                                

A.    DECK LEVEL AND BELOW DECKS

1. Check the boom gooseneck for worn pins, cracked welds, etc.…

2. Check the boom for bends or dents.

3. Check all block attachment points on the boom for fatigue or wear, i.e. vang bails, sheet bails.

4. Check all blocks and shackle attachment points for bent pins, distorted shackles, missing or loose ring pins, etc.…

5. To check halyards, attach a spare line (or the bitter end of the same line) to the shackle end and pull up on the halyard slowly. Check the line and check the shackle for proper operation.

6. Check all shroud, stay, and lifeline swages for cracks.

7. Check lifelines where they go through stanchion posts for excessive wear.

8. Make sure the mast sits flush on the mast step.

9. If your mast is keel stepped, make sure the mast is securely chocked where it goes through the deck.

10. Check the chain plate attachment points below deck for wear. Also check for signs of  rot or any evidence of water damage.

11. Make sure the chain plates or chain plate cover plates appear sealed and tight where they go through the deck.  

12. Check turnbuckles for bends in the body or stud, cracks, excessive rust, as well as ensure all turnbuckles are secured properly. Either by way of cotter pin, locking nut or ring pin.                   

B.   THE MASTHEAD – Before going aloft please consult with a professional as severe injury or death can occur!!!

1. Check all welds for cracks.

2. Check any masthead gear for secure attachment.

3. Check that all pins are secured with the specified retainers. Use correctly sized replacement cotter pins where required.

4. Make sure the sheaves turn freely and the pins that hold them-in are secure.

5. Check for sharp edges where halyards exit. 

6. Make sure all fasteners, rivets, screws  are tight.

7. Check head and backstay swages for cracks.

 

8. If you have an external mainsail track, as you descend, check the fasteners to make sure they are tight.

C.  SHROUDS

 1. Check swages for cracks.

 2. Check the shroud tangs for wear.

 

 3. Check  to make sure all clevis pins are properly secured.

 4. Make sure the tang bolt (if present) is tight and locked in a secure manner.

 

D.   SPREADERS

 1. If spreaders or brackets are welded, look for stress cracks (see pic below).

 2. Make sure spreader bases are secure.

 3. Make sure the spreader is well fastened to the base.

 

4. After inspection and correct mechanical securing, cover exposed sharp pin ends with suitable rigging tape or an appropriate protective cover. Tape does not replace a locking pin; remove covers regularly for inspection.

5. Check spreader tips, where spreader intersects the wire, for corrosion (remove any tape or boots) and ensure spreader tips are secured to upper shrouds by seizing or clamps, as specified by the rig manufacturer.

For rod rigging service and inspection intervals, read more here.

….Have a question? Drop us a line or leave a comment below. We’d love to hear from you.

~T.R.C. 

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