Blocks, Blocks, Blocks……


Lewmar Ball Bearing Block

Schaefer BlockROnstan Orbit

Choosing the right block can be a bit challenging, especially given the many choices. Holt, Ronstan, Harken, Schaefer, Lewmar, just to name a few. Your best bet is to go to your local chandlery and see for yourself. You will see that aside from the super “Gucci manufacturers”, that Harken and Ronstan are the clear choice when it comes to ball bearing technology. When looking for a quality ball bearing block you want to make sure that those little balls aren’t made out of cheap white plastic. At least if you have a choice, make sure they are black  instead of white ball bearings, which disintegrate quickly from U.V. and are not worth the hassle considering their lifespan. The best kind of ball bearing is of the Kevlar variety and it is usually disguised under the name of Torlon. The Torlon ball bearing, as far as I know, can only be found in the Harken block line-up. Of course you don’t always need the rip roaring action of ball bearings. So in some applications, like a boom topping lift for example, you are better off with a non-ball bearing unit. Still I would pick a black sheave over a white for the same reasons that I have mentioned before. When it comes to choosing a good sturdy non ball bearing blocks, I like to look at Schaefer Marine’s black sheave lineup. Yes, there are better/fancier/pricier blocks out there that are great, but I find these products unnecessary and overdone in most sailboat configurations. Long story short: if you are looking for good quality yet well priced ‘ball bearing action’, look to Harken or Ronstan! For something sturdy yet somethimg that doesn’t require the speed of let’s say a spinnaker sheet block, then I recommend Schaefer’s black Delrin sheave blocks. Check them all out for yourself and tell us what you think.Holt Snatch Block

KArver Ball bearing block

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Strap On Your Helmets…


Go ADOR!

ADOR Winning the leg.....

Abu Dhabi Ocean Racing is currently enjoying a 30NM mile lead over Team Puma. Check out the light show when the VOR fleet and Tropical Storm Alberto meet head to head…..

Posted in Around the World, incredible ocean, Maritime News, Sailing, Volvo Ocean Race 2011-2012 | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Lubricants for Sailboats!


In today’s sailboat market, there is no shortage of lubricants, that is for sure! Sometimes it is easy to be confused on which ones to choose. Not to mention there are even more lubrication products becoming available on the market every day. I have been on many boats and usually I see mixture of WD-40 and some sort of dry lubricant or silicone spray. Rarely do I see grease of any kind unless it is for some sort of engine related use. Today I would like to talk about what lubricants pertain to your boat’s rigging, what you need to keep on board, and what can stay a-shore.

WD40 for boats

Spray Lubricants; Aero Kroil, Liquid Wrench, T-9 Boeshield or PB Blaster are exceptionally good penetrants. They can come in very handy if you need to lubricate in-between tight places like the threads of a seized screw for instance. These types of lubricants can typically be left at home. Usually you only need break screws free if you a working on something that has severely lacked maintenance, which is usually part of a bigger project like a mast and rigging refurbishment. Although it says on the can that WD-40 is a penetrant, it wouldn’t be my first choice for achieving lubrication or penetration over the aforementioned products. That is not say that WD-40 isn’t a GREAT product. It can definitely come in handy in various marine applications. Our shop will generally use WD-40 to clean, de-grease, and dissipate moisture. Namely in servicing a boats winches (you can read more on that here). Wd-40 can typically be left a-shore for the average club and buoy racer. Most people overuse these products and one should practice restraint when resorting to these spray lubricants. Most of these lubricants are petroleum based and leave an oily finish which can collect massive dirt and dust. T-9, however, from the Boeing Corporation is a special type of spray lubricant that when dry will leave a waxy finish, thus attracting less dirt and oil then these other lubricants. Originally developed for the aircraft industry, T-9 can come in handy in tight to reach places that would typically require Teflon grease or the like. Some of the applications that are ideal for Boeshield are plunger pins in aluminum spinnaker pole ends, aluminum blocks with metal bearings, or aluminum sheaves with stainless steel sheave pins that cannot be easily accessed.

Household 3in1 oil for boats too

Dry Lubricants; I would try and stay away from silicone spray all together. Yes, this does leave a slick finish but it also leaves behind a pretty thick film of non-marine grade silicone that is not easily removed and moreover is not designed for marine use. Non-marine silicone can cause certain plastics and rubbers to disintegrate or have a shortened life expectancy. When talking about dry lubrication on a boat the best choice is Team Mclube’s SailKote. Now just like anything else this is a wonderful product when used in the proper application. SailKote is to be used in just about every type of ‘sliding’ application imaginable, i.e. non ball bearing, sail tracks, jib lead tracks and even traveler tracks. Please note it is NOT be used in ball bearing applications, only where the hardware ‘slides’ across or through a track. Mclube’s Sailkote should always be on-board of any sailing vessel at all times.

MClube NEW OneDrop

Oils and Conditioners; The famous household 3 in 1 oil actually should have a home aboard a boat, and that home should be with the winch service supplies. This is a ‘one drop’ll do ya’ type of product and is mainly recommended for use on winch pawls and springs. For the club racer or the day sailor, this can stay in the garage. Team Mclube also has a new product for anything with composite ball bearings, it is called OneDrop. So this would be for any plastic, Torlon, non-metal ball bearing piece of hardware on your boat, i.e. Harken furler’s, Schaefer Furlers, Harken Batt Cars, and much more. This product can probably be kept at home as well, for I cannot think of one emergency that one might encounter where soap, water or any of the other above mentioned lubricants couldn’t handle the job, at least temporarily.

Team Mclube's SailKote

I want to just take a second to touch on the hydraulic oil subject, as I am asked about it regularly. Of course the best bet in this case is to see your local rigger. Just keep this in mind: Hydraulic oils vary based on the boats geographical location and use. Usually it will need to be a low viscosity grade that stands up to high temperatures. It also needs to be free of all detergents, which could cause gases to expand within the cylinders and cause seals to become compromised.

Harken Winch Grease

Finally, Grease; There a lot of greases, Furlex grease, Harken grease, Lanocote, Super Lube and the New Marlube just to name a few. Super Lube is an automotive product and I stand behind 100%. You can use it almost in any application requiring grease. All of these various grease manufacturers, in my opinion, provide a very similar product. Harken and Furlex grease come in a handy applicator, which is why I like them, because it makes less of a mess. Lanocote has unfortunately been surpassed (again, in my opinion) by these other synthetic/Teflon based lubricants. Mainly because Lanocote is very temperature sensitive and because it is based on lanolin which makes it not smell good and it can become rancid after a while. Marlube is Forespars newest lubricant that provides all of the latest and greatest in lubrication technology. To me, it is simply the marine industry’s Super Lube. All of these lubricants can be adequately used on any furling gears, metal ball bearings, or any hardware requiring a little grease. If needed T-9 can be used in place of these other spray lubricants but I wouldn’t use the other lubricants in place of T-9.

T-9 Boeshield

So if it were my boat, I would keep 1 tube of Harken gear grease, 1 big can off SailKote, 1 can of T-9 Boeshield,  and a full roll of heavy duty paper towels on board. These three products should remedy any and all of your lubricating needs aboard your boat. I hope this helps you choose the right lubricant the next time you are in your local chandlery. Remember if you have a question that you would like to ask us, just leave us a comment and we will get back to you.

Posted in Harken, Product Review, Rigging, Selden, Tech Tips, The Biz! | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

What’s The Best Rope Clutch!


Lewmar Domino ClutchAs most things in life, there are pluses and minuses. Lewmar and Spinlock clutches are no exception.  Let’s have a look. Lewmar boasts the “domino” style locking mechanism. Spinlock raves about their cam being a superior rope grabbing mechanism. Well, both are pretty cool and both have their place. One of the downsides to the Lewmar clutch, other than it is a nightmare to reeve, is that it is very sensitive to rope size.. With Lewmar there is a different size clutch for almost every two sizes of rope. One of the downsides of Spinlock is it can chew up rope over a long, long time of static cleating. However, Spinlock rope clutches will cleat a wide range of rope sizes. Spinlock clutches run very freely when not clutched down. It is very hard to get rid of all of the friction in a Lewmar clutch.Spinlock Rope Clutches

So which one is better than the other. The answer is they are both great clutches. For static load halyards, such as those that pertain to headsail or behind the mast furlers where the halyard is left untouched for most of the season, Lewmar is the best choice. For applications where the rope needs to be able to run freely immediately, Spinlock comes in first. Don’t forget, Lewmar clutch levers open toward you and Spinlock clutches open away from you, keep that in mind when fitting a new clutch in tight spots like behind the dodger!

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Volvo Ocean Race…..


Leg 7 Is underway……

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Mainsail Furler Options


For furling the mainsail there are a couple of options. In-mast furlers or behind the mast furlers  and boom furlers. Hood in-mast furler      The benefits list of the in-mast furler compared to that of the in-boom furler is relatively short. It has less sail to furl due to the foot of the sail being a lot shorter than the luff. The boom with an in-mast unit is similar to that of a conventional mast and therefore weighs less than that of typical in-boom furling units. The last part of the in-mast furler ‘benefits list’ is, reduced cost in replacing the sail, which is a good thing considering these sails require regular replacement.

Behind the mast furlers have one additional advantage over in-mast furlers and that is, there is no little slot to try and squeeze the sail in between. These units are externally mounted and therefore allow us to diagnose and repair any issues a lot easier!Leisure Furl    Now, let us move on to the in-boom furler benefits list. Here you have the ability to reduce weight aloft over in-mast or behind the mast units, this is a big plus in my book. In-boom furlers allow for a fully battened mainsail which promotes a much nicer sail shape with more ‘roach’, and if nothing else the sail lasts much longer compared to that of a vertically furled sail. The chances of an in-boom system jamming on you are relatively slim and even if it does you can always drop the sail with the main halyard. Cost wise, in-mast units are the most expensive and behind the mast or in-boom units are the least expensive options.

If I were given the choice I would without a doubt choose an in-boom unit out of the three. So which manufacturers are the best? Well that is a matter of opinion, and in my opinion if you absolutely have to have an in-mast furler choose a Hood system. If you are rather leaning towards an in-boom furler, then without a doubt I would look at the Leisure Furl system. Why? Well the short answer is both companies have been around the longest of any of their competitors and therefore provide the most product R & D. Not to mention they are both the most serviceable and robust option of their competitors’. As for behind the mast units, these usually need to be custom retro-fitted and therefore really don’t have preferred manufacturer. They are usually made from headsail furling units of which I might be inclined to recommend Schaefer or Harken (click the links to see why). In the case of the behind the mast furler, you’ll need to talk to your local rigger and ask about what system they might use and how they would go about installing them.

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VOR – Miami In-Port Race


Catch all of the action. Welcome back Team Sanya! An absolutely amazing race. Make sure you watch the whole bit!

Posted in home is where the heart is, Maritime News, Sailing, Volvo Ocean Race 2011-2012 | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment