Boat Rope

YAle double braid ropeThe vast U.S. cordage market allows us to have several competitive options including; Robline, New EnglandSamsonYale, and Marlow Ropes, just to name a few. Each one of these manufacturers provide various rope constructions utilizing different materials to allow the consumer to achieve different functions based on application. All of the jargon like Spectra, Dyneema, Vectran, Kevlar, Technora, Dacron, Double Braid, Single Braid, and Three Strand, can be quite confusing sometimes. Let’s see if we can’t help explain some of the basic differences.

Rope Fibers:

Dacron is another registered trade name for Polyester. Its characteristics are; it’s extremely U.V. stable, chafe resistant, pseudo moisture absorbent, and a little stretchy (comparatively speaking), but soft in the hand and tends to run very freely depending on its construction.

New England Ropes Double Braid

Technora, basically Kevlar‘s replacement, comes from the Aramid family. This fiber is more stable in a U.V. environment than Kevlar (although, it would not be my first choice for U.V. resistance), it is susceptible to chafe, it does not absorb moisture, it is extremely low stretch, and is fairly heat resistant, but it does get stiff and rigid after heavy loading.

Spectra and Dyneema (synonymous products but different trade names) have more use in a wide array of applications. Spectra (or Dyneema) does not absorb water, is very strong, is very chafe resistant, and has a fair U.V. stabilization, it is also very low stretch, but is sensitive to excessive heat. This line material tends to stay more supple than Technora or Vectran, but is never quite as soft as Polyester.

Finally, we have Vectran Samson Ropes Single Braid Linewhich has combined some of the features of both Spectra and Technora. Vectran offers better heat resistance than Spectra and also lower elongation. Although fairly chafe resistant, this fiber will tend to be a bit more rigid than Spectra when loaded  and offers very little U.V. stabilization.

Rope Construction:

marlow ropesDouble Braid, the most common type of rope construction in today’s sailboat market, is a two-part braided  line, one part cover and one part core. Double braid line usually will have a polyester cover and a core made from either Dacron, Spectra, Vectran, Technora, or some sort of blend thereof. It is also possible to find blended and exotic covers. This is becoming more and more popular and Marlow Ropes is leading the charge in this department.

A Single Braid is typically a twelve strand braided line. This construction can typically be found in the core of a double braided line. Single braids can be coated to add U.V stabilization if necessary. Typically single braids are not good to put your hands on because they have a small diameter relative to their load capacity and can be slippery.

Lastly, Three Strand ropes are the more traditional looking right-hand-lain or twisted ropes that we will hardly use anymore in modern applications, unless it is for dock lines at which point Nylon becomes the preferred material due it’s elasticity, strength, chafe resistance and ultra high U.V. stabilization.

The way a rope is constructed, not just its material, plays a big part in how a rope performs, parallel fibers (like that found in New England Ropes Sta Set X) typically stretch the least, braided fibers usually provide some stretch or elasticity, and three strand line usually ends up being very stretchy and has a very elastic effect.

Hopefully this clears up at least a little of the technical jargon associated with rope. To find out what is the best product for your application needs please see your local rigger. You can read more about rope selection and maintenance here.

Leave us a comment below, we’d love to hear from you.

Click on any a picture to link to manufacturers’ websites for more info.

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Rolex Big Boat Series

The 50th Anniversary of the Rolex Big Boat Series hit the San Francisco Bay about two weeks ago.

Rolex Big Boat Series. YouTube. Sailing wipe outs

Here are a few of the always fun to watch highlights.

Video brought to you by T2pTV’s YouTube Channel.

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How to Service Your Winches

Winch Service

Some winches are more difficult to service than others. If you do not know what to expect, certain parts, depending on manufacturer, can come sliding out at inopportune times and jump overboard! i happen to know this from personal experience and if you are really unlucky (like I was) then it may be a part from a vintage winch for which they no longer make parts… woops!

 

Like anything else, there are varying techniques when it comes to servicing winches. Let me try and see if I can explain a simple method that I personally like to use. First, I would try and get some sort of manual or diagram of the winch you are trying to service or disassemble. The internet can be a really useful tool for this.

New Lewmar Winch Drum Top

In removing the winch drum, depending on the winch you have, you are looking for either a single screw down inside the winch handle socket or a split ring which sits on top of the drum and encompasses the winch handle socket. Andersen winches like to use three Allen Head screws that also hold the lifter on. Newer Lewmar winches will have large threaded washer which sits on top of the self tailing unit (pictured above). Some older model Lewmar winches will need the self-tailer disassembled in order to remove the drum. These methods should release the drum on most winches made within the last 20 years or so. Again, your best bet is to always look online for a technical diagram for your winch.

Harken Winch Drum ScrewThe trick to servicing any winch is to do ONE AT A TIME! All of the parts within a winch are usually specific to their location. Which means most of the time the winch will not allow you to put it back together improperly. Although taking pictures as you are doing this can’t hurt.

So now that the drum is free, try and slide it up gently and carefully. Some winches have Delrin or bronze key-ways that are let into the winches spindle or body that will need to be removed to completely slide the drum up and off. These can be tedious and require patience. Before you lift the drum off completely slide your hand under the drum to catch any parts or pieces (like bearing sleeves) that may be stuck to the inside of the drum and like to come sliding out when you least expect it.

servicing the winch

Next, we should be looking at the internal workings of the winch. Slide off and remove any pins, gears, washers, and spacers that are removable. From here depending on what winch you own, you may need to remove the winch completely. I know nobody wants to actually unbolt the winch, but if it hasn’t been serviced in the last five years or more, I would definitely recommend to go all the way and service the winch completely.

So how do we ‘de-gunk’ all of these parts? Well, this is the difference in my method vs. others. Generally you will see people use a tub or a parts washer and use either kerosene, mineral spirits, diesel fuel, or the like. This makes one heck of a mess, can be bad for you, and it stinks! I like to use good old WD-40 and a roll of paper towels, it de-greases, cleans, lubricates and dissipates moisture. Not only that, it also comes in a handy-dandy spray can so I can show up at the boat with just a fresh roll of paper towels, a can of WD-40, a cardboard box for my trash, spare pawls, springs and some gear grease. I will lay out a paper towel next to the winch I am working on and clean each and every part as I remove it and lay it on the paper towel.Winch parts on paper towels After all of the internal workings have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected including the inside of the drum and all non moving parts; I reassemble the winch completely and carefully, then grease all of the gears, bearings and the spindle, ONLY. NEVER GREASE THE PAWLS! For the pawls WD-40 is all you need, you can opt use 3 in 1 oil or pawl oil for them, but never grease.

I will Make sure all pawls and springs are in good working condition and that they have nice action. If not, I replace them with the spares that I have.

Lewmar 3 in 1 oil The key to winches is, I’ll say it again, DO ONE AT A TIME. Re-assemble the winch carefully and if it is not going together correctly right away, then take it back apart and try again! Remember you need to be patient, but do not put it back together if you think it is wrong. Instead ask your local rigger for help. Hope this helps and leave a comment if you have a question.

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Views from Aloft

Jimmie Cockerill Aloft in Canton Baltimore

HI!

 I struck gold again with another beautiful day in the Baltimore Inner Harbor!

Canton Waterfront

On this day we conducted an official sailboat rigging inspection for the United States Coast Guard…pretty cool eh?

U.S. Coast Guard Sailboat Rigging Inspection

This is a shot of the bow and the USCG anxiously awaiting my return to earth to tell them about what I found.

Safeway Grocery Store

I just liked this shot of Canton and it just so happens to be a great plug for Safeway supermarkets….you’re welcome.

Cracked Stanchion Base

Unfortunately for the boat owner there were some cracks….

Marine Eye. Cracked fitting. Cracked Headstay. Cracked forestay fitting

….,some worse than others. Above is an image of the headstay marine eye and the crack that I found. It migrates all the way around the bottom of the eye, yikes!

Endeavour 43

The boat was an Endeavour 43 Ketch and repairs were made immediately. 

Thanks for taking a look at the view.

~T.R.C.

 

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When Replacing Electrical Items in the Mast

Raymarine Wireless Tacktick Mast Head Fly

Raymarine Wireless Tacktick Mast Head Fly

Re-wiring and replacing the fixtures in the mast is a task that most of us boat owners need to face at some point. Let’s address what needs to happen during this process and what is the most efficient way to do this.

OGM Tri-Color Anchor Strobe w/ Photodiode

OGM Tri-Color Anchor Strobe w/ Photodiode

Forespar ML II w/ Light Guard

Forespar ML II w/ Light Guard

First, the mast needs to be un-stepped. Therefore it could be a smart idea to handle any other items that could benefit from the mast being out.

Next, begin by removing the old masthead fixture, the old steaming light fixture, and the old VHF antenna. Now remove all of the old wires and any remaining hardware. In some cases there are electrical items that need to be re-used. These items could be a radar and cable, as well as a digital wind instrument. Be sure to carefully remove these items as well and inspect them closely (now’s the time).

Shakespeare Squatty Body VHF Antenna

Shakespeare Squatty Body VHF Antenna

Perko Spreader Light, Adjustable Mount

Perko Spreader Light, Adjustable Mount

~CLICK ANY OF THE ABOVE IMAGES TO LINK TO THE MANUFACTURER’S WEBPAGE!~

Once all electrical items have been removed, you should check to see if there is a conduit present and how it may or may not be fastened. A properly installed conduit offers; no wire slap, clean wire runs, and most importantly, the ability to run additional wires or trouble shoot existing ones with ease, even when the mast is up.

Sailboat Mast Conduit

Properly Installed ConduitInstalling a conduit is a bit’ of a ‘trick of the trade’. It is best here to seek the assistance of a professional rigger if one needs to be installed. Make sure to ask your rigger what technique he or she might use. At T.R.C., we will use aluminum or PVC irrigation tubing. This type of tubing offers a sleeker connection at the joint. Our conduits are then riveted using a pair of aluminum rivets (to avoid dissimilar metals) every 3′ or so along the length of the mast. I like to counter sink these rivets because it makes it look more finished and also gives you no issues if there might be future sanding.

Properly installed conduit

 

After the conduit is ready to go, you are now ready to fish-in a messenger line. From here you can begin to pull in your new wires. Always try and leave in a service messenger when finished. Unless the conduit is full of course, we don’t want to be misleading anyone in the future. I tend to make it a practice to pull-in the large wires or the wires with permanent ends first. Now go ahead and drill, tap, and dry fit your new fixtures. Make sure you take your time and think it through and follow the manufacturers guidelines. Never use sheet metal or self tapping screws, even if provided by some manufacturers. Always drill and tap, or rivet your fixtures along with a dab of sealant for a secure hold.

marine grade electrical connectors and heat shrink tubing

Forespar ML II Wiring Guide

Make sure you use marine grade connectors that heat shrink. Additionally, before making any connections, slide on a piece of marine grade heat shrink tubing. Marine grade heat shrink tubing has an adhesive that is released when heated. After your connections are made and heat shrunk, make sure to provide some sort of strain relief for the cables (pictured below).

Proper strain relief for electrical cables at mast headNext, install the fixtures permanently using a sealant as an isolation barrier. Pull out any remaining slack at the butt of the mast. Trim all of your cables to a neat and even length. Leave enough slack for service lengths. Finally test all of the light fixtures through the mast and label the cables accordingly.

As always, don’t be afraid to ask, so leave a comment or ask a question, we will reply. Thanks for the read!

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