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26 Comments

  1. Hello,
    Thank you for sharing your projects. What a great source of inspiration they are.

    I am rebuilding a yacht in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland and currently designing a doubler to cover an area left over by two cutouts from an aftermarket installed inner Forestay on a proctor 10.2m mast.

    Unfortunately the cut outs have sharp angles, so before fitting a plate, I am going to carry out a dye test to ensure no stress cracks and then round out the edges.

    Will ask a fabricator to make a single plate of 3 or 4mm 5083 Aluminium that will be bent to cover the area of both cutouts. Will be oval in shape. A single row of Monel rivets 15mm from the edge.

    I read on another post you recommended gluing as well as riveting. I had originally planned to bed in using a zinc cromate insulating compound or Duralac.

    I like the sound of the glue.

    Was wondering what product/type you would normally use for this application.

    I contacted west epoxy about their G-Flex product. It sounded good although the recommendation of abrading the anodising put me off as I would not like my repair to cause problems further down the line.

    Any feedback much appreciated.

    Thank you

    Reply

    1. Hi Tim,

      Sounds like you’re on the right track. Yes, round out the corners well, then yes, glue and rivet. We use simply West System 105 and hardener of your choice, or 3M Scotch Weld.

      Hope that helps and thanks for the comment.

      Cheers,
      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  2. Winch ripped from Selden Mast! I now have a hole. How to repair? I was going to take the other winch of as well for symmetry. As I now have single line reefing and don’t need them. I was thinking of a doubler plate to reinforce. What would you advice

    Reply

    1. Hi Ray,

      A doubler plate that expands beyond the damaged area a bit is great idea. WE typically use fair shape like a diamond, or a shield (home plate), that is curved to match the shape of the mast. We will also pick thickness that is similar to the mast wall or a tad thicker. Then it is either riveted and glued, screwed and glued, or welded (if painting the mast) in strategic spots so it will cause the doubler material to suck up flush to the surface of the spar.

      Hope that helps and good luck.

      ~Jimmie

      Reply

  4. About how much did the SS chainplate backing plates for that Ericson 32 run? I would like to have one made for my boat.

    Reply

    1. Hi Andrew,

      We just got another email asking the same question. Here was the reply…

      “The rods and and backing plates may come in around $350 each for both, rod and backing plate.

      Yes, you would need to send us the old rods and backing plates for duplication.”

      Thanks for the inquiry.

      Regards,
      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  5. Need mast for oceanis beneteau 38 2015
    Any suggestions of where to look?
    Thank you
    Jose Caballero
    T. 787-370-0030

    Reply

    2. Hi Jose,

      Has one of our sales staff already contacted yoU? You would look towards the OEM mast manufacturer for this. For which we are dealers. Please connect with Brad@theriggingco.com or call 443-847-1004; for pricing and lead times. He should have that information available for you today.

      Thanks for choosing TRC.

      Reply

  6. Hi, Im thinking of removing the mizzen permanently from a Formosa 41 … want more uncluttered deck space, would you have any advice on this idea … ?

    Reply

    1. Hi Brad,

      I think that is a great idea. I mean it really all boils down to how much you need that thing for sailing. If the answer is not much, than I vote for…take it out of there and see how you like it.

      Good Luck,
      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  7. we are looking for replacements for the ” stemball” This “stemball” style socket was originally designed and manufactured in house for Hinckley Sailboats.

    Reply

  10. I just sold a different Cabo Rico 38 from 1988 and I love what you’ve done with the one here. The mast re-rig looks beautiful. Any major concern areas that you found on the rigging?

    Reply

    1. Hi Aaron, thanks for the comment and the compliments. The Cabo Rico 38 is a nice solid boat. Along with the standing and running rigging replacement there where a few things that popped up:

      When we un-stepped the mast, there was heavy corrosion around the mast step and deck collar. The deck collar had to be removed with the mast, during the un-step, to lift the spar without damaging the deck. The mast butt needed to be trimmed to remove corrosion which was compromising the structure of the spar at the step. The mast step and deck collar were both cleaned up, re-anodized, and salvaged nicely.

      We replaced the chainplates as per the customer’s request. Although I don’t think they showed any signs of cracking or failure, they were replaced do to concerns of fatigue from mileage and use.

      Lastly, we replaced all of the sheaves in the stay-sail boom, main boom and the mast due to UV degredation. We also replaced the large hollow (tubing style) sheave pins in the masthead, as they were out-of-round, with solid machined pins. These are common problems with the Isomat Spars but can be resolved without much ado.

      Hope this is helpful,

      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  13. HI Jimmie, You and Sean have an impressive website! A picture says a thousand words; passion, dedication, education. We will be in touch. Cheers, Lisa Bardarson/Jon Reichlin Vessel Bright Star

    Reply