Tanya Peyton

Office Manager/Sales - St. Thomas
admin@trcvi.com

Brad Clark

General Manager - Annapolis
brad@theriggingco.com

Nini Champion

Rigging Technician/Sales - St. Thomas and Annapolis

Patrick Jinks

Master Rigger/Hydraulics Technician - Annapolis

Sam Martin

Rigging Technician/Sales - St. Thomas
sales@trcvi.com

Samara Clark

Rigging & Hydraulics Technician - Annapolis

Carl Gumbs

Rigging & Hydraulics Technician - St. Thomas

Charlie Leonard

Rigging Technician - Annapolis

Meet the Founders

Sean Simmons

R.I.P.S.S.

Jim Cockerill

Owner

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

13 Comments

  1. We are rebedding all of our chainplates since we just bought the boat. One chainplate is partially rusty. How do I clean off the rust?
    Plus while our mast is unstepped I would like to clean the all the shrouds backstay etc. I did this with water and a towel. Is there something I can use that’s better

    Reply

  3. Do you do pre-purchase rigging inspections?
    Cost?
    We are close to purchase decision of Hunter 36 (2004) with Selden in-mast furling. The Selden system requires annual service. Could be a deal breaker if this furling system is not sound. Boat currently sitting in Inner Harbor East Marina.

    Reply

    1. Hi Sue and Colin,

      We do! The cost for a visual safety inspection is $95/hr. and it usually takes about two hours worth of work (if we need to go aloft, if not it’s half). There will be a $200 service call to travel to Baltimore (if no aloft inspection is required the service call is $100) If you would like us to provide a detailed inspection report there is a flat $399 fee for boats up to 42′ and we will provide you with packet that goes over every rigging related item in detail. These are usually only requested for insurance purposes or by the inspector during the sale of a vessel.

      Thanks for contacting us and let us know….

      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  4. Dear Friends, Aloha from Honolulu. I am new to rigging and tuning, but it is time for me to replace all my standing rigging. I own a Pacific Seacraft 25, a tough little boat with tough rigging. Do I understand this right that if I can mail you all my old rigging, you will be able to replace it? About, how much for a small boat like mine? I like the extra sturdy rigging on her now, and it is essential here in Hawaii. Tradewinds!

    Reply

    1. Hi Tim! Absolutely, we do this all of the time. Make sure to email us or call us for some instructions before shipping… For a loose number $2500 might be a good budget. But that’s very rough. It could be as low as $1800 or up to $3k.
      Once we receive the rigging we will make an estimate of the cost based on the actual parts needed. You can decide at that point how you’d like to proceed.

      You can also take some measurements and take pictures and we can try to create a more accurate estimate that way.

      Let us know and thanks for the comment.

      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  6. It appears your text and the video on tuning the mast disagree as to the order of tightness in the aft lower and intermediate shrouds. It is at about the 5:00 mark in the video. Which one should be used?

    Thank you.

    Reply

    1. Good call, and thanks for the comment. John, it is important to remember that these are generalizations and one should seek the help of a professional to determine what is the right set-up for you and your boat. Having said that, on a double spreader mast with fore and aft lowers, the intermediates and aft lowers will be the least taught. If I was looking to de-power the sail plan a bit sooner, I may have a tendency to slightly tighten the intermediates more than the aft lower. If it was power that I was looking for (light air sailing), I may be inclined to slack off the intermediate a little. Whatever you do just make sure that you do it to both sides equally. Whether you tighten the intermediate slightly more than the aft lower or about the same, they are typically very closely matched in tension. So I think there is no wrong answer here, it just depends on what you are looking to do.

      I hope you find this reply helpful and please don’t hesitate to contact us or reply if you need further assistance/ information.

      ~T.R.C.

      Reply

  7. In addition I looking any recommendation/experience you may have a rigger of best method for one person to be able to climb the mast. I looked a some of opition on market-mast steps, mountain climbing gear, webbing with foot steps, the bag with all blocks. Any input would be helpful, I am 63 years old in average health, I work eight hours a day sitting at desk.Maybe being in the business you have designed your own system better then the one on the market.

    Thanks,

    Jim

    Reply

    1. Thanks for the comment!

      We like to use a 3:1 block and tackle. It consists of a double block which attaches to the halyard and a ratcheting single becket block which attaches to the chair. This does require a good bit of line (approx. 4 x “I”), but the whole deal can usually be stowed in a long milk crate. Additionally, we always recommend; having a good quality chair or harness that is properly secured and rigged with a safety tether, never climb on a splice or a shackle, always tie a bowline, and use a good quality dedicated climbing line (which should be reeved just before use and stowed below decks). This system does have the issue of accessing the masthead as you will be to-blocked before you get there. This could be remedied by having foot steps installed just at the mast head.
      My thoughts on webbing loops is that they are uncomfortable. Foot steps are unsightly, noisy, foul halyards, and accelerate corrosion (dissimilar metals). Loops or steps also tempt people into not using a chair and halyard and this can lead to safety issues. Lastly, it has always been a concept of ours to stay away from mechanized equipment, more stuff to break.

      Keep it safe, keep it simple and keep it functional.

      Hope this helps….

      Reply