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The Rigging Company 

7416 Edgewood Rd. Bldg. 7402 Suite 1

Annapolis, MD 21403


Monday – Friday 9:00 A.M.- 6:00 P.M.


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  1. Hi Folks,

    BTW, great site! Can you provide a rough estimate for replacing the rod rigging on my 2003 Sabre 452. Thanks

        1. Just for the rod as if it walks in the shop.

          To add unstep and step we’d likely add another $2500 + your crane and yard fees.

          …these are all loose round numbers for the sake of conversation a planning budget.


      1. Also I heard best practice now is for using wire for the forestay. Can you comment? Thanks.

        1. We see it a lot but we always replace that with rod…. So that the backstay pulls against the like material.

          Other than the commisioning company not knowing the measurement of the forestay when building the mast, and the rest of the rods already being done at the time of commissioning, we could never figure out why this is a plus.


      2. Hi TRC, Who is the manufacturer of the rod rigging and did the quote include new turnbuckles?

        1. Hi Robert,

          Just took a look at this one again. The customer DID in fact supply his own turnbuckles, good catch. SO, I reconfigured this with new turnbuckles at 10% parts discount across the board and the total came to $9500. Not including shipping, tax and mast down up. So I’d say a good budget is at least $15k for a job like this. Parts and labor may fluctuate. Keep in mind that jobs like this can easily go to $20k-$25k depending on what’s added/ needed.

          For more information please email

          Hope this helps.


  2. Hi, I’m getting ready to repaint a Johnson rig on my 1988 41 Morgan Classic.
    I see on here you keep recommending an epoxy primer for the aluminum.
    I was thinking about using Rust-Oleum Self Etching Primer for aluminum, what is your thoughts.
    All previous paint has been removed

    1. Hi Craig,

      Rust-Oleum is good for steel surfaces in my opinion, e.g. trailer, log splitter, car.

      For a marine application and especially an aluminum spar, after a thorough washing with soap and water (and or an acidic solution), we recommend an epoxy primer to create a moisture barrier. Then coat that with a polyurethane top coat for UV resistance.

      Name brands to look for, in order, AwlGrip, Imron, or Interlux would suffice. Seek out two part solutions.

      Hope that helps.

  3. Hello,
    What an informative site! I have a question about backstay tension/tuning. Our fractional rig has a split steel wire backstay that splits in two about 8ft from the chainplates (to accommodate the dive platform). Each of the splits are smaller gauge wire than the longer single piece.
    None of this setup is factory installed nor done by myself. We are casual cruisers.
    So the question is:
    When tuning the rig will the tension on each split be 1/2 the recommended tension of the larger single stay?

    1. Hi Nathan,

      Thanks for the kind words. Typically you don’t want to exceed 30% of the wires breaking strength, the top wire, in terms of tension. Having said we wouldn’t likely use a gauge. There can be a range of tension for the backstay that is adequate depending on set-up, light, medium or heavy. I would tension both legs evenly until the headstay tension feels adequate.

      Also bear in mind that, if you’re using wrenches made to fit the flats on the stays you are tensioning (without additional fulcrums) you typically won’t be able to over-tension, if that’s your concern. Under-tensioning is also unlikely, it will just result in a slack headstay and affect the boats ability to point well in windier conditions.

      Even though that may not be what you are looking for, I hope that helps.


  4. Hello,

    I own a Beneteau 473 (Greece), I am interested in adding a cutter rig, for heavier weather sailing. There is an attachment point (moulded depression) on the foredeck for a fitting immediately above a bulkhead. My question is relative to the attachment point on the mast. Is it sufficient enough to attach the mast fitting between upper spreaders for support. This would set the cutter rig back approx one metre from the attachment point of the forestay and if the upper spreader attachment is OK the cutter forestay would then run parallel.
    any information you can supply at this early stage would be very welcome.
    Thank You in advance and great site for all things on rigging.

    Rgs Mark

    1. Hi Mark,

      Thanks for the comment. If you are looking to install the upper fitting on the mast in between the spreaders and the top of the mast, about middle; the use of a running backstay or standing backstay (requires another chainplate aft of lower shroud, may not be doable) is necessary to provide aft tension. This aft tension is to counter the forward forces of the new inner stay. Alternatively, you can go higher up, somewhere around 1-3′ from the backstay should do it, and this will allow the boat’s backstay to provide the aft force required to adequately tension the new inner forestay. This is also spar structure concern, not just a stay tension issue for being able to work to weather in heavy conditions.

      Let us know if this helps or if you have further questions. You can always email us with images at


  5. Would you be able to supply or know where can I purchase mast chocks suit Tartan 30.

    1. Hi Dean,

      We usually cut our chocks to fit on location with a portable band saw. However, a great alternative for the DIY’er is called Spartite. Just follow the instructions, work on packing blanket when it’s dry and calm outside. Call us if have more questions.

      I’d have to check their latest pricing but, we can send you a kit for around $140 + shipping, contact us and we’ll get you one in the mail.


  6. Hi,
    I am looking for a section of a teardrop shaped aluminum boat mast. It only needs to be 9 incjhes long. Would you have any scrap around that might fit that description?


    1. Hi Andrew,

      I am afraid that we don’t, we only carry new products and are quick to clean up/ recycle around here. As much as I don’t want to send you to competitor;-0), our friends at <a href=””>Annapolis Rigging</a> maybe able to help better. Last I saw they have a good inventory, new and used.

      Hope that Helps,


  7. I have a crack on the chain plates, about 1/2 the width of both, on starboard and port side. The boat is a 1984 J35. I am located at Bowley’s Marina and currently in the water.

    I am pretty sure both chain plates need to be replaced. My question is will you do this work and in what time frames. I am not sailing now because of this so I am hoping for a short lead time. I guess I could motor to Annapolis but even that could be a problem with these plates.

    1. Hi,

      We would certainly be glad to help. Timing wise, first a few questions: Is the mast up or down? Would you be bringing them to us? Would we install and remove or just make plates?

      Thanks and let us know.


        1. Hi,

          Yeah it would be a tough call regarding the safety standpoint. Which two chainplates are they? I forget, do the 35’s have only one plate for all three stays on each side?


            1. Gotcha. Okay…We have next week booked up pretty solid, but the week after we may be able to squeeze you in. You will need to take the mast down for this. You can do this at Maryland Marina..I’m pretty sure. Maybe give them a ring tomorrow and see what they say about that and the cost involved. This will keep you from a trip down the bay and eliminate safety concerns.

              Then we can schedule a trip up there to take the plates out. This may take around 4 hours plus a service call to Baltimore of around $100. We charge $100 pr hour and bill to the 100th of the hour.

              We bring the plates back for duplication, I estimate anywhere from $350-$450 per plate for something of that complexity.

              Then we can come back up for an install 4 (maybe 6) hours. Again with the service call.

              The plates will likely take about a week to make. So lets say three weeks, at the earliest the end of the month is realistic.

              The office should reply to the work request tomorrow, but give us a call to expedite this and mention our discussion and we can get you an estimate to set up a deposit and schedule a date and time for all of this.

              Cheers and thanks for choosing…


                1. Absolutely. It ultimately depends on the facility and what heavy equipment needs to be used to unstep the mast. I prefer not having to go up and down the ladder. Where is the boat and what size is it?


  8. Hi I need a rod rigging stem terminal for a 1982 Bruce Farr 48, a ‘one off’ build by Pacific Seacraft. it was the first Farr build in the USA in fact. I am in Tonga now and expect to find a swaging machine in Fiji. Can you guys send something up there? And also please detailed instructions for the swaging. Its probably the first time they will do rod rigging. Is it similar, the same, totally different from wire? The size i am after is 3/8, the material is nitro 50 I assume since it doesn’t look the same as sss 316. its grayer. the lower port shroud snapped just under the swage. does the rod need a rod head and a swage or just one of those. I don’t quite understand how it was put to gether originally. I hope you can help, at the moment we are using a rope and tackle! yours,
    Frans, S/y Sangvind.

    1. Hi Frans,

      Rod rigging requires a cold heading machine. A 3/8″ diameter rod equivalent would be -22 Nitronic 50 Rod. This is completely different from 1×19 wire swaging.

      The fittings on both ends of any rod stay capture the head that is formed by the cold heading machine. Depending on the length lost, you may be able to re-head the rod and make up for it in the turnbuckle. What do the fittings at either end look like? Please send any pictures that you may have to


  9. Sorry, but I am currently off the coast of Peru and cannot call. Please let me know if you can find a 900SL somewhere (just the bottom section as I’ll re-use the 915LD extrusions). If it is used, it’s OK with me.

    1. Okay, unfortunately after some research, those are no longer in stock anywhere. Out of production. Your only option I am afraid is to purchase a whole new unit.


  10. Hi, I have a Hood 915LD on my boat and would like to replace it with a 900SL. Do you have the 900SL drum section available? Thank you. Dominique

    1. Hi Dominique, I am fairly certain they’ve stopped making this unit. Please give us a call 443-847-1004 and we’ll chat with our friends Hood and see what options we can come up with for you.

  11. Hi, I have a Hunter 376 and bought one of those yacht rods. I need to find a fitting that will slide in to the slot in the boom (z spar) as the one that comes with it does not fit….any suggestions would be great, thanks!

    1. Hi Karl,

      So it may be that you have to modify a Selden boom lug for Rodkicker to fit. Here is the link… Scroll down and see if one comes close, especially in pin size. OR try …. (scroll down) Feel free to <a href=””>call</a> to discuss we can order one for you. I have had to dress one of these down with a grinder to slide into the boom’s existing track on an Isomat mast recently. Maybe you modify the Forespar one to fit in the groove. OR buy build a custom one. If you give me groove dimensions and pins size we can make you one as well.

      Hope that is of some help.


  12. I have 2 25ft Catalinas that need some mast work.
    The capri 25 needs a steaming light installed on the mast…it never had one…..
    The catalina 250 needs the deck fitting replaced but there is not enough extra cable to make this happen so I am thinking we need the mast rewired and eliminate the deck fittin altogether.

    We are a ways away from Annapolis.

    Any ideas?

    1. My tip is to lower the mast (s) and then do any wiring and light install necessary. These boat’s are likely to tender to go aloft on anyways and unstep really quickly. Email us for more info for lights, tips or tricks.

      We’d be glad to help.


  13. Thank you for responding to my inquiry. My initial thoughts are I would like to replace the running rigging for my main halyard, jib halyard, and all sheets. If adjusting the winches, toggles and pulleys is something you do too, that would be great. My goal is to just have better functioning rigging. I am unsure of my choices for line types and costs. Please let me know if there is a good time to talk with you about my needs.
    Thank you,
    Jonathan Brown

  14. I am located in Colonial Beach, VA and am looking for someone to replace the running rigging on my 1987, Ericson 28. Is something that you provide or do you know of anyone near Colonial Beach, Va?
    Thank you,

    1. Hi John,

      We certainly do and would be glad to help. Do you have list of needed lines, i.e. Genoa, Spinnaker halyard, Main, etc…Please also just let us know if the lines are led aft or terminate at the mast. You can use our <a href=””>Online Work Request</a> Form when you are ready for pricing. Just provide us with the aforementioned info. We can also install them for you or you can brave ti yourself. Read our blog on <a href=””>Reeving Lines</a>.


  15. I am currently looking at a 1977 C&C 33 Mark I, It has as far as I know the original rod rigging. The boat has not been used much, however I am sure I will need to have the ends replaced at the very minimum. Please can you help me. I live near Kansas City Mo. As far as I know there are no rod riggers near me. Would I need to remove the rods coil them up and ship them to you for service. or is it something someone locally can do. and what kind of cost am I looking at. The boat is reasonably priced however I still need to know (BALL PARK RANGE) what cost I would be looking at and any other suggestions. I’m not a racer only the occasional holiday regatta. This is the only data I have on the boat.

    Please, please, please can you help me?

    1. Hi Rich,

      Thanks for choosing TRC for your rigging questions. You can certainly send us your stuff anytime you are ready. We just sent some rod rigging to Puerto Rico actually that is very similar to the rigging that you have. For the sake of rough numbers you can expect around $4k for rod service, which will replace some rods, replace those recalled Navtangs and cover some of the shipping. This amount can vary $1k in either direction depending on what we determine that you need. If you want to add a new headsail furler, add roughly another $2k. Having said all of that, once we receive all of your items we will carefully spec and ask any questions that we might have to provide you with a detailed estimated for the work. You would then approve the proposal by signing, dating and providing a 50% deposit of the estimated amount.

      Please fill out our Work Request Form when you are ready to ship it to us, submit it, as well as print a copy to go into the box with rigging.

      Laslty, before unstepping mark all turnbuckles at the threads, where they intersect the turnbuckle body. Then, label and remove the stays as follows: port upper, starboard intermediate, port fowrard lower (or PFL abbrevetaions are recommended), backstay (bax), etc….

      The headstay furler will be the challenging part. You will need to disassemble the unit completely AND it cannot be a early model Harken furler, otherwise you will never get the terminated stay through it. If this is the case you will need to provide us a pin to pin measurement along with pics of where you measured from – to, then either buy a new furler (it may be time anyways), OR we will need to make the furler out of wire and you will need to finish one end to length on site via some of our instructions.

      I hope that answers some of you questions and is not too long winded.

      Cheers and We Look Forward to Working with You,

  16. Hi my name is Manning Harvey. I sail a 1979 Albin Vega. I was reading on a Albin Vega Blog, that in the past that you had fabricated a new “Forestay Chainplate” for a blog member’s Vega. The original Forestay Chainplate on the Vega has been determined as possibly a weak spot on the boat rigging. If you have a template to fabricate a stronger, better chainplate I may be interested in buying two. As I am in the process of restoring another Vega also. If yours has a anchor roller that would even make me more interested.

    1. Hi Manning,

      I took a look and we do not have any templates on file for the Vega’s stem fitting. We can certainly create something for you though along with anchor roller option. We would need you to <a href=””>send us</a> the old stem fitting, as well as fill out our<a href=””> work request form</a> and we can go from there. We will put together a design that is both stronger than the original and meets you anchor roller requirements before we proceed. Thanks and let us know.


  17. I have a Cal 33-2 with the original Isomat rig. When I bought the boat the rig was out, all of the shrouds seemed to be in serviceable condition. Mast had a little S shape from the trucking (this was worked out after a quick tuning when it went in). One thing I noticed was the starboard upper spreader has a tendency to sit at a higher angle than the port and the lower sits at a lower angle. (We are talking 1/2-3/4″ from where the port side spreaders like to sit on the shroud. All spreader bases looked symmetrical and did not appear to be stressed or fatigued, and all components went together very easily. I checked to see that they sat symmetrically before the rig went up as well. At this point, even if I manually adjust the spreaders to be equal with the port side, they will revert back after the first good beat and tack to weather. I understand that it’s very important to keep the spreaders where they should be to support the rig, but it also drives me crazy seeing it not perfectly symmetrical on the mooring. Any ideas? All shrouds are wire and run through the spreader tips, and there is a cap that keeps them captured. Thanks for any advice!

    1. Hi E,

      You are totally right and it would drive me nuts too. It sounds like you already did what I would have suggested. It is likely (if the spreaders aren’t bent) that the spreader bases, be it through bar or “spigot style”, may have become bent. Perhaps whatever bent the mast caused this as well. There is a small chance that they were never right to begin with. Feel free to send pics, from afar and up-close perhaps I can be of more help this way.


  18. Hello. Thanks for your blog.

    I bought a sailboat(cd30), that’s in a lake 600 miles from me. I need to bring her down home and I’m stressing over how I can do that.

    Please advise.


    S/V Of Course

    1. Well, I’m not sure how to best answer this. I would start with a trailer that fits the boat. Then unstep the mast. Then load it all up an tow it out of there. I am not sure how that lake operates. How do they get boat in and out of the water? Worst case scenario you need to hire the services of a crane to help with this.


  19. I have a J/42 and would like to have a little sprit built that can sit in the now empty port anchor roller slot. I’d like it to be easy enough to mount and dismount that either could be accomplished in under 5 minutes.

    Is this something you can do? Will you be at the boat show?



  20. About how long would it take you guys to make up forestay and backstay for a Pearson 33?

  21. I have a 26 ft mcgr. The mast was bent will haul her on the trailer to the lake. Is this some thing that can be fixed in do I need to purchase a new one

  22. Do I need to take all tension off all before tuning… Or Cani just measure to from deck make sue they are equal

  23. Trying to tune/ check rod rigging Beneteau32s5 before race . Going to boat this afternoon

    Help/ Suggestions for a novice at tuning

    1. Hi and thanks for commenting.

      Just follow the guidelines in the write up. The over all goal is that the mast needs to be straight and in-column when looking at it from side to side.

      Fore and aft, the mast should show a very slight lean aft. Depending on whether or not the spreaders are in-line or aft swept; you should also see some slight bend if there is any aft sweep to the spreaders just from the tension of the uppers.

      A Rod stay tends to run a bit tighter than wire, so keep that in mind.

      For racing, ideally once the static tune at the dock (the part we just talked about) is done, go out and sail tune. Do this by going hard on the wind and checking to see if the leeward shrouds are just starting to dance, this is ideal. If they are swaying about they are too loose for the current conditions. If the leeward shrouds are tight, they may be a touch to tight. Tension and loosen as needed; count what you did and to what shroud, then tack and do the same to the other side.

      ALWAYS secure the turnbuckles when you are finished adjusting them.

      Hope that helps.


  24. Hi, I have an Amel Mango Ketch 1987 and I need to replace all the Missen rigging.Could you help me? and send it to Toronto,ON?

    1. Hello, we do this type of job all of the time and certainly can help. If you haven’t unstepped the mast already please mark the threads of the turnbuckles where they intersect the turnbuckle body. Then label (i.e. uppers, lowers, runners etc…)and ship them to us. Once we receive everything we will provide you with an accurate quote for replacement. Alternatively (and this will require some specific instructions) you can provide us with stay dimensions, i.e. wire diameters, pin diameters and required end fittings. The first method is preferred. Please let us know how we can be of service.


  25. Hi , I have a 62′ aluminum mast that has been taken off the boat , all the halyards have been taken out the and no tag lines were pulled in , is there any way to get the halyard back in the right place . the boat is a 1981 45′ Formosa single mast cutter rigged .
    Stressed out :

    1. Thanks for the question Bill. No need to stress out we do this all the time. You need to go to your local hardware store or Home Depot and purchase a steel fish tape. They are probably near the electrical goods. You will also need a relative amount of messenger/leader line no bigger than 5/32″ or so.

      Take your time with each halyard to ensure that it is lead cleanly. Roll the mast in such a fashion that you use gravity to help you fish-in a messenger cleanly. This can take a while for a beginner, but you will get through it. Run one line at a time and tie off the associated messenger tight before you run the next one. It is advisable to do this for all of the places for halyards, even if you do not have an actual line to run into that position….this way you at least have a messenger. After you are all done, you can begin attaching the messenger to the line and pull them in, also one at a time. Any twists will show themselves as you’re running the line. If you do get a twist, it will typically show itself at the exit slot. Now here is where you need to really think about which way to untwist it….otherwise you’ll have a double twist!

      Just take your time and remember it may take a while, especially if it is your first time.

      Hope that helps, let us know how it went.


    1. You will need to find something smaller. Most boats under 25′ will have the ability to lower the mast via tabernacle. You should check with the various boat brokers on this they will be of more help. Let me know if you need some sources. Thanks for the comment……

  26. Hi guys what do you have available in the way of rigid vangs for my 35ft Bowman Starlight RM 34.1
    cheers Warren

    1. Warren,

      We provide various rigid vang systems. Hall Quickvangs for something a bit more sportier. Forespar Yacht Rod is a good robust option (this may be my first recommendation for your boat). Gerhauer vang or the Selden Rodkicker are some less expensive options but still a get the job done. Let me know which one interests you and I can forward you some pricing.


  27. Hi, I have an original hood stowboom system and need to replace the flex track. I am struggling to find a supplier (am based in the Uk). I understand the Leisure Furl by Forespar uses the same profile. Are you able to advise and or supply spares? Thank you in advance, Heinz

    1. We can supply Leisure Furl spares, no problem. However, I would give Hood a call to confirm this info first. They can be reached at U.S. tel 813-885-2182. If all of this is true, then your best bet would be to contact Alan Massey at Forespar California, U.S. tel 208-642-1312. Leisure Furler has changed their track over the years which is why I would double check and although it is not super expensive part, it would still all be for nothing if it didn’t work is all! If you contact us with the exact L.F. part number that you want, via our online work request form, I will gladly order and drop ship you any such track. Thanks for the question. Let me know if this helps.

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